simonsaystechtalk

Have a look at my YT video on how to use a Panasonic heatpump and Homeassistant to start controlling the heatpump.

The required scripts can be found here: https://github.com/simonsays-techtalk/HAPA

Update: Homeassistant 2024.2 modbus (and maybe others as well) require the precision: 1 setting in your modbus config for the temp sensor. Might look like this:

name: Temperature sensor
address: 1
precision: 1
scale: 0.1
unique_id: tempsens1
unit_of_measurement: °C

If you own an Tuya TS0011 zigbee switch, without Neutral. It might fail. If it has failed, it is likely due to bad capacitors.

The power supply in the switch holds 3 capacitors.

1 x 50V 4.7uF and 2 x 10V 330uF. The 330uF have failed in my switch. I think the reason for that is that the voltage of 10V is too low. I did not measure them, but I replaced these with a higher voltage of 16V.

The 330uF capacitors where leaking and bulging.

Replacing them is straight forward.

DISCONNECT MAINS! DISCONNECT MAINS! DISCONNECT MAINS!

1: Did I mention, DISCONNECT MAINS!

2: Wait a while for the capacitors to drain power

3: Open the case, it is clipped together

4: The PSU is screwed down, in my case with 1 screw, remove it.

5: Remove the PSU and replace the capacitors

If you own an Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo and you want to update your mainboard to an SKR mini E3 V3 you will need to update firmware and setting to get this mainboard to work on your printer. You can download the settings from my github. This is version 1.0. I can only assume that I will keep updating these settings to use on my printer. Use at you own risk!

I will soon ( 9-2023) be opening a shop where you will be able to by repaired and/or upgraded devices. Most repair or upgrade procedures can be viewed on my YT channel SimonSaysTechTalk.

I noticed that the site was performing a little slow. This has been resolved by installing a plugin that generates static HTML from dynamic pages.

Ok, so I decided to build my own 3d printer. But needs to be very cost effective, otherwise I can buy a new and pre-build one. But there is no fun in that.

I have an old Velleman K8400, it is build around/in a plexiglass case. And the case has started to weaken, but stepper motors, mainboard etc… are still working fine. So an idea was born.

I want to build a 3D printer, based on the K8400 parts, with modern firmware and a sturdy aluminium frame.

I am going to use 5 stages:

• Electronics/firmware PT1 on my Youtubechannel
• Design
• The frame
• Extruder and hotend
• Calculations

The reason behind these stages is, that I can split the build process into parts and rather than just buying what I need and find out I need even more parts and then go down the rabbit hole. So if I fail in modernising the mainboard, I may adjust my route or stop here basically.

The end result should somewhat resemble a Creality Ender 3. But due to design changes and choices, it might totally not 🙂

Electronics and firmware:

I need to be sure that the mainboard can be controller by a modern firmware from Marlin or Klipper. I’ll test both firmwares to see if I can still run them on this mainboard. Klipper is preferred for 2 reasons:

1: Klipper uses external computing power, rather than the old 2560 CPU from the K8400. This should improve printing performance, but it will require something like an RaspberryPi 3.

2: I’ll explain why later.

Steppermotor drivers are already attached to the mainboard. But if this build works fine, I will probably upgrade the controllers or install smoothers. The K8400 shakes a lot and makes a lot of noise while printing.

Design:

The overall design, but mainly the design of the frame is important. Sturdiness is key. I have 2 designs, see the drawings below.

The design needs to incorporate the PSU, mainboard, the computing power and all other electronics and wiring harness. Cooling is also required. I’ll be using 12Volt silent fans.

The PSU will also be a challenge as the mainboard operates at about 15Volts, yes 15Volts, also a poor design choice, because 15V and not 12 or 24Volts. I want to install a heated bed, these operate at 24V.

• Heated bed 24V
• Mainboard 15V
• Raspberry Pi 5V
• 3 or 4 Fans 12V

Preferably I install only one PSU and step down to the required voltages. I need to look into that on the best and smallest footprint solution. Using one PSU is a design decision I need to make, because I do not have much space at the base of the printer. The electronics will be located at the bottom of the frame, between the legs. This way the printer will not become top heavy.

The mainboard and RPi3 require additional space and for both of them I need to create a case of some kind, maybe.

The Frame:

The frame itself is made from extruded aluminium. 3D printers have an optimal design size, at least for the print bed. It is 200x200mm, print height will also be about 200mm. The printbed requires a sturdy but lightweight frame. Opposed to the K8400, this design will have 4 adjustable wheels, the K8400 has only 3, which is a design fail if you ask me.

I’ve “made up” two designs that take my design decisions into consideration.

• Sturdy
• Lightweight
• Space for electronics
• Easy to mount equipment and easy build process.

Note that the printbed is not drawn in D1 and D2.

I’ll update the exact dimensions on the go.

The decision is still open. D1 and D2 are opposites of each other in terms of tidiness and accessibility.

Extruder and hotend:

I’ll keep this a simple setup. The extruder I’ll be using is mostly based on the K8400, the hotend will be a E3D V6, because that is what I have.

Calculations

This is probably where I might fail.

Travel distance, print speed, movement speed, belt rotations etc.. It al needs to be calculated. I should start with this, but than the fun is over rather quickly.

The Amiga 500 is working! Have a look at the cause.

I have uploaded part 2 of the repair/troubleshooting session of the Amiga 500.

I still do not have the CIA’s. This is due to British Royal Mail being hacked and having all abroad shipping suspended. Great, so I ordered new CIA’s Hungary.

Well, not really. I kept messing around with settings and cables and other webcams. So I gave in, or up. I downloaded a fresh copy of Mac OS Ventura 13.2 and reinstalled my Mac mini M1, et voila, continuity camera works. So now I can use my iPhone camera wirelessly, yeay.

Well the issue is found, checked, reproduced. To me, this is a bug. If your continuity camera on a mac mini m1 does not work, check out below.

The solution is to plug in another usb webcam. The continuity camera will work straight away. If I unplug the webcam, this also disconnects the continuity cam.
Thanks to this thread.